.Chachapoyas.
Le giornate a Iquitos si fanno monotone.
In un mese abbiamo seguito lo sviluppo della lotta popolare e indigena, il caso Andoas e il processo che si svolge tuttora nella sala penale del tribunale di piazza 28 de Julio.
Abbiamo appoggiato e documentato le marce, i blocchi, le assemblee popolari e le riunioni cittadine.
Abbiamo parlato con gli avvocati di José Fachìn, Marco Polo Ramires e John Vega Flores.
Nelle nostre potenzialità abbiamo cercato di far da megafono alle loro grida di sdegno e di rabbia.
Dopo un mese però a causa del tavolo di dialogo di Lima (instaurato solo per prendere tempo e per far buon viso a cattivo gioco di fronte the public and the international community) the situation seems asleep, the struggle asleep, anesthetized. In stand-by.
The discontent is always strong and with it the disappointment in seeing representatives lend the negotiations of the government trying to buy the leaders of various communities without fact to back down in what is the Treaty of free trade and privatization of the Amazon and also of the Andes.
E 'stalled, for inactivity.
The climate is wet and at times suffocating and now we know the city well enough to not know anymore where to turn. In addition, the tremendous chaos in the capital of Loreto is a drill in the brain.
decide then leave the city, taking advantage of the pause in the process of the case Andoas, to name a few around Iquitos and close out a few days in the wilderness to purify mind and body. We rent a scarlet red Honda
old but with a very handsome return, we fill and backpackers go exploring the surroundings iquiteñi.
Take the road to Nauta and we pass along the snake of asphalt by zig zag between the countless motorcycle taxi and turn every road that we encounter along the way.
One of these is a road full of potholes that can be slipped between palm trees and dense vegetation. For our sides
huts and shacks in the background.
We enter a few miles with the butt che risente del terreno incidentato fino a arrivare in qualche piccolo paese dove la vita sembra scorrere fuori dal tempo.
In mezzo alla strada ragazze e bambini fissano reti occasionali per giocare a pallavolo (sport praticatissimo nel paese) e noi ad ogni campo improvvisato rallentiamo e abbassando la testa passiamo sotto le reti per continuare lungo il percorso.
Ai lati campi da calcio in terra con porte costruite con piccoli tronchi si susseguono tra file di case e piccoli negozi di paese che vendono giusto l'indispensabile.
La gente ci osserva incuriosita inoltrarci verso la periferia selvatica.
Arriviamo nei pressi dell'aeroporto dopo aver superato il paese di San Juan, patrono della foresta amazzonica.
Accostiamo l'aeroporto proseguendo to not know where.
The damaged road leads to a small village at the entrance has a sign saying
Laguna Azul. Village of 150 souls sprigionante natural energy and overall sense of calm and balance. A small river runs alongside the village men and women here and wash, do laundry, fishing and swimming to get a respite from hot and humid at times unbearable.
horizon we see a high bridge about three meters and turn right to reconnect to a dirt road too. Some of the canoes
lords build log cutting and digging with chisels.
The bridge is built with planks of wood about 20 cm each in successione alle altre; il problema è che ogni tot alcune scompaiono lasciando piccoli vuoti che rendono visibile la laguna sotto i piedi..
Divertiti accendiamo la moto e percorriamo il ponte provando qualche brivido quando le ruote superano i vuoti lasciati dalle assi marce.
Alcuni dei presenti e tra questi i falegnami ci osservano divertiti.
Continuiamo fino ad arrivare dopo un paio di centinaia di metri al paese di Santa Clara che si stende sul fiume Nanay.
Questo paese di pescatori di circa 4000 persone si localizza intorno alla piccola piazza centrale e finisce sul fiume, in questa stagione ancora alto, dove baracche fluttuanti in armonia col rio servono birra fresca, pesce e succhi di frutta.
Here is the famous beach of Santa Clara where the locals pouring over the weekend when the river is low and gives birth to many beaches.
We stop to enjoy the sunset while sipping a Pilsen (local cerveza), but we do not have time to get off that two men from the Honda Tugging inviting us to their table in a small cabin-bar-restaurants-nightclubs fluctuating.
accepted the invitation and we sit, on the round table, plastic bottles of 66 cl beer are a dozen empty.
The atmosphere is fun and enjoyable and one of the boys is visibly happy because of the hops, the other is quieter.
someone swims in the river and someone puts in soaking clothes.
I colori si fanno pastello e la luce tramontina del sole splende sulle acque scure del Nanay.
Hanno 24 e 28 anni; entrambi sono fidanzati, convivono ed hanno figli.
L'allegro ventottenne dice di avere due donne che ama in ugual maniera.
La madre di suo figlio vive la situazione senza problemi e lui racconta quanto lei sia comprensibile e amabile.
Sono entrambi pescatori e sono amici sin da piccoli; lavorano insieme lungo il fiume da quando avevano dieci anni.
Sono come fratelli.
Il più giovane lentamente si lascia andare e si chiacchiera piacevolmente.
Eric, il ventottenne, ci parla della sua famiglia; ha due fratelli che hanno studiato a Lima, uno avvocato e l'altro ingegnere.
tells of how different from his brothers, as he prefers to practice at the Academy, talks about his knowledge of the Amazon.
She left school for fishing.
He likes to live well, naturally and in harmony with the lungs of the earth where he lives. A
eight years already and was fishing along the river was at home. It speaks of
curanderismo, traditional medicine and plants.
E 'happy and you can tell by how we look.
You are resting at the table and are drinking to celebrate the return to Santa Clara after four days of fishing and camping along the Rio Nanay in 'Amazon.
have captured a small manta that will sell to the Japanese.
It is almost dark and the clouds threatening and full of rain approaching, and we salute you, we hug and go back to Iquitos. In moments of dead
short trips like this we've done a lot: A
Quistococha and lagoon rich in ancient legends which we have embraced the anaconda and where to get the rest of the purchase of two water and two tortillas we had to wait two hours ..
In Belem, the Venice of the Amazon, the outskirts of Iquitos ..
Here the country is built into the Amazon River, cabins and floating on stilts one another, schools, churches and the large market
emerging from river. can be visited by canoe or small motor boats. You switch between the
flooded streets, the light poles are almost completely submerged, the soccer fields can be glimpsed only the crossbar that emerges.
Dogs families sunning themselves lying in the courtyard floating home.
boats carrying children to school.
People go from house to house or boat or swimming.
's something magical and harmony. Also because
Belèm is not small.
Its market is the size of a quarter.
Part of it is built on the road, part of the River.
Narrow alleys and shacks full of chaotic and goods crossing the road and down the River.
vegetables, meat, tobacco, clothing, monkeys and chickens, fish, games, tools .. it sells everything to the market of Belem.
The most characteristic and charming alley is that of herbs and medicinal plants;
infusions to treat diabetes, for other circulatory problems, others for menstrual pain or bowel.
plants that treat stomach pain, roots for the skin, bark for pain due to arthritis.
Herbs that heal the mind and body, plants and trees used by shamans curandeiros.
All this in a small alley along fifty yards, the side curtains are located in a sequence to another.
The ladies are from San Juan, and from the forest to sell their drugs.
After a day of all waste vengono assiepati in una piccola stradina dove prima del tramonto alcune donne e bambini vengono a trafugare in cerca di resti commestibili.
Corvi giganti stanno sopra le loro teste e tra di loro, a trafugare anch'essi.
Il tutto sembra di una normalità incredibile.
Abbiamo scritto con un indelebile nero su un paio di magliette bianche ¡Yo no soy gringo! stufi di essere chiamati gringo dalla gente.
I primi risultati in senso positivo li abbiamo riscontrati allo stadio di Iquitos dove gioca la squadra del CNI ( Collegio Nazionale di Iquitos) che lotta per la salvezza.
E' l'unica squadra loretana presente nel campionato peruviano.
E' un'istituzione per i loretani dato che Loreto è una regione enorme, la più Peru's great.
We put in a queue at the ticket counter in a corridor, limited by the presence of the police and we are going to buy two tickets for Sur, where the curve are the 'hinchas' of the CNI. We pay eight
soles (about two euro) and we get curious, in our Latin American imaginary curves are all like those of La Plata dell'Estudiantes Veron (fresh winner of the Libertadores Cup) of Boca, the St. Paul 's Allianz Lima, and so on.
Once up in the stands we see that the hard core of the curve protagonisti.Siamo children are surprised.
The stadium is new, has about two years, holds up to 25,000 people sitting on all four sides of the synthetic pitches.
CNI navigating in low-lying areas of the rankings, is ten-game losing streak and needs to win.
Its lighthouse is better known as Carlos Barrena El Chato, 24, playmaker slightly higher than one meter and sixty.
The game is tense and it affected the show but the NIC goes ahead and closes the accounts in the second half ending on 2 to 0. Ola was born a
the stands in which all participate in making them do at least five laps of the stadium.
Spectators applaud from the sidelines and in leaving the children and some adults give us pats on the back and turn us happy for the victory smile .. and for our shirt.
Along the way home we run into two elderly people who stop us curious about the presence of two foreigners.
They ask us where we came from, what we do and, surprised by our interest in indigenous people's struggle and think about two journalists who knows that size, they hug us and asked us to inform the world what is happening in the country, the genocide of the Native when that is not due to snipers' bullets as Bagua comes from the ultra-liberal policy of the Government, and the exploitation of the Amazon from contamination by oil and mining companies. They also know that their wars of tomorrow will be for water.
They feel in danger as a people and ask us to support.
We tell them that we will do everything possible but the apathy and ignorance are a cancer in Italy, a nation that they, like many other modern and developed image. Hungry
salute and go home after having exchanged phone numbers.
back to stage two more times during our stay in Iquitos and we find ourselves lucky as the team wins both games thanks to the good of the coils 'chat'.
leave the fourth from CNI (relegated the last three) with four points ahead of the team that follows.
We go from Iquitos to do some day the silence of the Forest.
When we return from the forest when he finally left Iquitos to continue our trip to Tarapoto, Chachapoyas and Bagua great.
Before we salute John Vega Flores, a friend like many native Kichwa victim of Peruvian and global system.
informs us that Teddy War INDAM (Apu Andoas native community during the events of March 2008 and imprisoned for over a year without having been tried yet) to the nth request of lawyers have been granted probation.
can finally reunited with his wife and children, one of whom was born in captivity.
Saul Sanchez Rodriguez remains in prison.
Meanwhile, the government changes its skin with the new Premier of the Republic; Javier Velasquez Quesquén but not in substance.
has not been made any step back, ten of twelve law decrees that plunder Peru, the Amazon and with it the world continue to exist, the radio La Voz Bagua AA continues to be forced to keep their doors closed because of the government which wants to gag (it's a great act in solidarity campaign carried on by 'National Association of Journalists of Peru-ANP-, by the people and journalists from all over South America); oil exploration agreements with foreign oil companies remain undaunted and worse than before (Alan Garcia has sold hundreds of acres for 'extraction of crude oil to Perenco), Bagua to continue to mourn the disappeared and the country is increasingly militarized and Alberto Pizango, president dell'Aidesep still in exile in Nicaragua along with other representatives.
The government is trying to delegitimize indigenous representatives giving word and launching arrangements with pseudo native representations (representing none and condemned by their own community who say they represent) will actually buy.
And the farmers are fighting across the country, especially in the region of Cusco. On July 5
popular demonstrations in Bagua and Lima were bloodily suppressed with hundreds of arrests.
But the international news is silent and plays into the hands of the government denying the problem and stating that the factual situation was resolved with the repeal of Decree 1020 and 1064. Victory of the peoples of the forest and the government step back ..
Why does not mention the free trade agreement or the other ten orders still in force as the 1081 decree creating the national system of water resources and opens a possibility than the private management of water against the right of communities to manage individually?
Come into the forest to pull the plug a bit and find 'ourselves.
. Tuesday, July 21, 2009.
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